Bandsaw Mill Build

This time we'll install the motor that will drive the sawhead lift and complete the sprocket installation that will route the chain from one lifting column to the other.
When I added the guides to the mill, they ended up in not quite the right position so up until now, the blade was guiding itself through the cut.  The placement of the guides also prevented me from tracking the blade back far enough onto the wheels.  I modify the mounting posts (1:15), track the blade (8:28), set the guides (12:13), and test the set up by milling a pair of logs (spruce and elm)(16:24).
After months of building this saw it is finally time to get the saw head calibrated to start cutting.  The majority of the work involved is aligning the wheels and getting a blade tensioned and tracking correctly.
The last piece that needs to be added before the mill can be tested is the tensioner.  The tensioner will move the idle wheel out and away from the drive wheel putting tension on the blade.  There are many ways to accomplish this.  I will be using a simple hydraulic ram and hand pump so I need some way of holding the ram and I need something for the ram to push against.
A bandsaw mill is pretty dangerous. Not only do you want to protect from body parts coming in contact with the wheels and blade but you also need to contain the the blade if it breaks.  
There's still plenty to do still to complete the first iteration of my homemade bandsaw mill however I had enough done to do some test cuts to make sure it would actually work.  Here I'm cutting a 12" diameter spruce log around 5'6" long.  The guides are not set, the saw is at a fixed height, and the lube system isn't installed. 
The bed of the bandsaw mill still needs some mechanisms to hold the logs in position as they are being cut.  Since I do plan on converting these functions to more robust hydraulic mechanisms in the future, I want the side support and log clamps to be simple to build but still very functional.
Up next are the blade guides.  These will control the blade through the cut to keep it cutting straight.  I made these guides adjustable on both sides of the saw so I'll have more flexibility in the future.
On to the lifting mechanism that will set the cut height of the blade.  I decided to use an acme rod for this since in theory it should be easier to automate in the future.  I also like that it provides rigidity in the up and downward directions.  With a cable or chain lift, the weight of the saw head is used to keep the head stable.  I'm not sure how great of a possibility it is but with the saw head just hanging there, it could bounce while cutting.
Now that the drive wheel is installed, it needs a power source.  I've chosen to go with an electric motor for my mil.  I shared my reasons for this choice over an engine in the introduction but the main reasons are cost and ease.