The Lifting Rods

23 Nov The Lifting Rods

On to the lifting mechanism that will set the cut height of the blade.  I decided to use an acme rod for this since in theory it should be easier to automate in the future.  I also like that it provides rigidity in the up and downward directions.  With a cable or chain lift, the weight of the saw head is used to keep the head stable.  I’m not sure how great of a possibility it is but with the saw head just hanging there, it could bounce while cutting.

 

1-thrust-bearing

At the bottom of the carriage, I added these extension platforms which the lifting assembly will rest upon.  At the very bottom of the assembly will be a thrust bearing that will carry the weight of the saw head.  I need to make a mount and holder for the bearing so I picked up a section of DOM tube with an ID that the bearing will fit into.

2-cutting-tube

I’ll cut a ring out of the tube that is just slightly shorter than the bearing is tall.

3-bearing-holder

That ring will be welded to a mounting plate that will receive mounting holes so the assembly can be bolted to the carriage.

4-finished-bearing-holder

Here’s what the bearing holder looks like while being welded.

5-extension-mockup

Next I need to make extensions for the acme rods.  An easier way to do this would be to get a rod that ran all the way from the top to the bottom.  That would be close to 8′ in my case which would be a pretty spendy component.  I chose to make extensions out of some DOM tubing and a coupler.  A piece of round stock fits into the DOM tube and the round stock will go into the bearing leaving the DOM to ride on the bearing.

6-extenders-parts

I cut two pieces of DOM to around 14″ and cut a few pieces of 1″ round stock.  I didn’t have quite enough round stock so part of these extensions will be hollow which isn’t a problem since the load is transferred by the DOM tube.

7-drilling-plug-weld-holes

The round stock will be plug welded to the DOM tube so I drilled holes for the welds.  I drilled 4 holes in each piece of DOM all the way through so there will be 8 plugs on each.

8-coupler

The DOM’s OD is just slightly too big to fit into the coupler I’ll be using to join it to the acme rod.

9-shaft-on-lathe

I mounted the DOM tube into my wood lathe and used a file and sandpaper to bring the OD down until it fit nicely into the coupler.

10-plug-welding

Now I can weld them together.  I set the protrusion of the round stock so that it would pass almost all the way through the bearing.  I wanted to make sure that the shaft didn’t bottom out.

11-cutting-the-keyway

Next the extension needs a keyway cut where it will go into the coupler.  I used an angle grinder with a combination of a cut off wheel and a grinding wheel.  I used the cut off wheel to establish the extents of the keyway and used the grinding wheel to hog out the waste.  I worked slowly and test fit the key stock as I went.

12-threading-the-rod

The extension can now be set into the bearing and I can get the acme rod installed.  The rod passes through the clearance holes in the beam, through the nut holder, through the acme nut, and into the coupler.

13-relief-holes

I didn’t do the best job keeping the holes aligned but since they’re just clearance holes, I cut away some extra material on the top side.

14-completed-lower-section

Here is the lower assembly installed.

15-upper-shaft

The top section is another coupler and a length of 1.5″ shaft stock.  The shaft will run through a pillow block at the top of the carriage and will hold the sprockets for the mechanism which will turn the screw.  I cut the shaft longer than the height of the carriage just in case I need to mount something on the top side.

16-bearing-mounts

The bearing needs to be spaced out from the side of the carriage, so I cut a scrap piece of tube to the correct width and welded some blocks inside of it.  These blocks will be where the mounting holes for the bearing will go.  The extra material will give me more threads.

17-tapping-the-mount

I tapped these mounts for 1/2″ bolts.

18-welding-on-the-mount

The mounts can be welded to the top of the carriage.  I slipped a piece of tube over the shaft to protect it from any weld splatter.

 

Products Used

Metal Circ saw: http://amzn.to/2c3DaSS
Lincoln 225 Welder: http://amzn.to/2cvOrfU
Triton Super Jaws XXL: http://amzn.to/2fPJCm9
Triton Super Jaws: http://amzn.to/2eB0smV
Triton Engineers Jaws: http://amzn.to/2ftAyPE
Super Jaws Side Support: http://amzn.to/2eB18Zv
Triton T20 Drill: http://amzn.to/2eqsmyD
Transfer Punch Set: http://amzn.to/2fiAQ0H
Tap Magic Xtra Thick: http://amzn.to/2c4E0j0
Cobalt Drill Bit Set: http://amzn.to/2bYIRnR
Hi-Lift Jack: http://amzn.to/2g83VaA

14 Comments
  • Phillip Pruente
    Posted at 16:25h, 23 November Reply

    Matt,

    What brand and model of abrasive chop saw are you using?

    • Matt Cremona
      Posted at 17:11h, 24 November Reply

      I’m using a 14″ Performax chop saw

  • Sam Boykin
    Posted at 01:18h, 24 November Reply

    Excellent progress, even in the frigid weather.

    Keep up the great work to date.

  • Henry Hoover
    Posted at 00:29h, 14 March Reply

    I am really impressed with your bandsawmill. I made my living for 5 years with a Woodmizer Lt 40 Then I had to sell the mill at that time that mill was $13 Thousand

    and not the same mill is $28 K so I am building one and I have enjoyed your videos.

    You make your welding look so effortless What rods are you using.. Also I need a little more help on My lifting rods, I would like to see your set up in a little more detail
    or closer I suppose.. and aliging the two sides for level and connecting the Chains and splrockets.

    Thanks Henry Hoover

    • Matt Cremona
      Posted at 15:45h, 15 March Reply

      Thank you! I’m using 6011 rods. What details do you want to see? Each side is leveled independently before the chain is installed to link them.

  • Henry Hoover
    Posted at 00:33h, 14 March Reply

    I would like to know where to buy the Jeans you advertises and also the jacket

    Your mill is the second to the biggest mill I ever saw. The biggest was in Canada

    Where did you get the stainless steel for your log bunk top rails

    Good job Keep it up

    • Matt Cremona
      Posted at 15:49h, 15 March Reply

      The full line of RIGGS Workwear is available here: http://bit.ly/2dDv7MK
      I got the stainless tube from Discount Steel, a steel yard in town here. Thanks!!

  • Greg DiMarzio
    Posted at 17:39h, 15 March Reply

    When do you expect to the video on motorizing the saw head? I’m designing my own mill now and I’m looking at a few options to move my saw head up and down. Really love your videos.

    • Matt Cremona
      Posted at 02:00h, 18 March Reply

      Should be soon. I have to complete the tensioning mechanism and chain routing between the lifting rods. Lots of motorization options as long as it can generate enough torque to turn the screw. (mine takes 40ftlbs to raise, 25 to lower)

  • Henry Hoover
    Posted at 12:45h, 25 March Reply

    I am grateful for you videos but need to see more detail such as how the rod actually lifts the sawhead
    how the plate under the sawhead is attached to the frame
    what you use to align the acme fods to make sure they are parallel

    how do you assure that they both lift together

  • Henry Hoover
    Posted at 13:29h, 19 April Reply

    Where did you buy the Thrust Bearings at the bottom of the Acme rod
    no one near me has them

    Also the Couplings you used to put the Acme Rod to the blank Cold rolled bar

    Thanks Henry Hoover

  • Henry Hoover
    Posted at 22:23h, 26 April Reply

    I am still waiting to hear where you purchased the Thrust bearings and would like to see
    a close up of the mounting bracket that holds the Nut that actually lifts the Head when the Threaded rod turns.

    Thank you
    Henry Hoover

  • Henry Hoover
    Posted at 01:26h, 05 May Reply

    I am still waiting to hear where you purchased your Thrust Bearings

    Henry Hoover
    Alloutdoorz@yahoo.com

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