Bandsaw Mill Build

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Fixing the Guides & Side by Side Milling
When I added the guides to the mill, they ended up in not quite the right position so up until now, the blade was guiding itself through the cut.  The placement of the guides also prevented me from tracking the blade back far enough onto the wheels.  I modify the mounting posts (1:15), track the blade (8:28), set the guides (12:13), and test the set up by milling a pair of logs (spruce and elm)(16:24).
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Initial Bandsaw Mill Set Up
After months of building this saw it is finally time to get the saw head calibrated to start cutting.  The majority of the work involved is aligning the wheels and getting a blade tensioned and tracking correctly.
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The Tensioner
The last piece that needs to be added before the mill can be tested is the tensioner.  The tensioner will move the idle wheel out and away from the drive wheel putting tension on the blade.  There are many ways to accomplish this.  I will be using a simple hydraulic ram and hand pump so I need some way of holding the ram and I need something for the ram to push against.
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Blade Guards
A bandsaw mill is pretty dangerous. Not only do you want to protect from body parts coming in contact with the wheels and blade but you also need to contain the the blade if it breaks.  
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First Cuts with the Bandsaw Mill
There's still plenty to do still to complete the first iteration of my homemade bandsaw mill however I had enough done to do some test cuts to make sure it would actually work.  Here I'm cutting a 12" diameter spruce log around 5'6" long.  The guides are not set, the saw is at a fixed height, and the lube system isn't installed. 
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Log Holding
The bed of the bandsaw mill still needs some mechanisms to hold the logs in position as they are being cut.  Since I do plan on converting these functions to more robust hydraulic mechanisms in the future, I want the side support and log clamps to be simple to build but still very functional.
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The Blade Guides
Up next are the blade guides.  These will control the blade through the cut to keep it cutting straight.  I made these guides adjustable on both sides of the saw so I'll have more flexibility in the future.
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The Lifting Rods
On to the lifting mechanism that will set the cut height of the blade.  I decided to use an acme rod for this since in theory it should be easier to automate in the future.  I also like that it provides rigidity in the up and downward directions.  With a cable or chain lift, the weight of the saw head is used to keep the head stable.  I'm not sure how great of a possibility it is but with the saw head just hanging there, it could bounce while cutting.
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The Drive Motor
Now that the drive wheel is installed, it needs a power source.  I've chosen to go with an electric motor for my mil.  I shared my reasons for this choice over an engine in the introduction but the main reasons are cost and ease.
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The Drive Wheel
The drive wheel is the bandwheel that will be powered.  The power will be transferred to the wheel through a pulley which attaches to the back side of the drive shaft.  Whereas the idle wheel was all about making it mobile, the drive wheel is all about making it rigid.
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Carriage and Beam Work
The next biggest things that need to be added are the drive wheel and motor to the beam.  Those items will make the beam much more difficult to manage should it need to be removed which it does in order to paint the carriage and to prep the beam for the raise/lower mechanism and the blade guides.  So instead of moving forward with the bigger items and kicking myself later, I decided to knock out some of the less glamorous items.